Study and pairings by chef Martín Coronado with DOP Jumilla wines
The young chef Martín Coronado starts with the Monastrell grape, which the climate and soil of southeastern Spain have selected for centuries. Therefore, it is dominant, carrying with it aroma, sweetness, and a Mediterranean touch; and this is what the chef has been able to harness extraordinarily well.
Through the study “Jumilla, Harmonies on the Palate,” he has delved as scientifically as possible into a well-considered cuisine paired with wines ranging from rosé to those with longer aging. A true pleasure to enjoy.
Study: Martín Coronado Álvarez
Photographs: Javier Jimeno Maté
Monastrell Grape
Undisputed Queen of the Jumilla DOP
Monastrell is a rustic variety, one of the oldest known. While Monastrell has probably been linked to the Levant since Roman times, the first ampelographic study on it dates back to the 18th century. Over time, this Mediterranean grape variety came to occupy inland areas near the coast, as the continental influence on the climate is a determining factor for the quality of these wines. Thus, in Jumilla, this variety finds a “tailor-made” terroir.
Learn to enhance the nuances of Monastrell and discover the affinities between foods and wines from the Jumilla DOP.
With the goal of constructing a table of foods that are compatible with Jumilla wines, Chef Coronado’s study begins with “theoretical affinity” tables, which are then confirmed or ruled out through practical testing. This initial selection of potentially compatible products is derived from varietal studies, as well as from various pairing theories such as those of Robert Harrington, François Chartier, and Ferrán Centelles, among others. This table, once tested, serves as our roadmap for creating harmonies.
| Rosado | Joven Monastrell | Crianza Monastrell | Monastrell Pie Franco | Syrah | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blackberry | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Raspberry | Enhances | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances |
| Redcurrant | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Plum | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Coconut | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Pink | Young Monastrell | Monastrell breeding | Monastrell Pie Franco | Syrah | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chard | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Spinach | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Coles | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Carrot | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Beets | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Parsnip | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Celery | Overrides | Neutral | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Fennel | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral | Enhances |
| Turnip | Neutral | Overrides | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances |
| Pepper | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances | Neutral | Enhances |
| Eggplant | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Neutral | Neutral |
| Zucchini | Overrides | Neutral | Neutral | Neutral | Overrides |
| Asparagus | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Chili Pepper | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Tomato | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Rosé | Young Monastrell | Monastrell aging | Monastrell Pie Franco | Syrah | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mushroom | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Mushroom thistle | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Morel | Overrides | Neutral | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Elver | Overrides | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Overrides |
| Trumpet | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Pink | Young Monastrell | Monastrell breeding | Monastrell Pie Franco | Syrah | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chard | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Spinach | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Cabbages | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Carrot | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Beets | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Parsnip | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Celery | Overrides | Neutral | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Fennel | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral | Enhances |
| Turnip | Neutral | Overrides | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances |
| Pepper | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances | Neutral | Enhances |
| Eggplant | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Neutral | Neutral |
| Zucchini | Overrides | Neutral | Neutral | Neutral | Overrides |
| Asparagus | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides |
| Chili pepper | Cancel | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Tomato | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Pink | Young Monastrell | Monastell Breeding | Monastrell Pie Franco | Syrah | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nail | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Licorice | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Vanilla | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Neutral |
| Pepper | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Cocoa | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Coffee | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Black tea | Overrides | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances |
| Smoke | Neutral | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Thyme | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Romero | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Sage | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Star anise | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Ginger | Neutral | Enhances | Neutral | Enhances | Overrides |
| Pink | Young Monastrell | Monastell Breeding | Monastrell Pie Franco | Syrah | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black olive | Overrides | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Truffle | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Overrides | Neutral |
| Black pudding | Overrides | Neutral | Enhances | Enhances | Enhances |
| Smoked | Neutral | Neutral | Neutral | Neutral | Overrides |
| Pickles | Overrides | Neutral | Overrides | Neutral | Overrides |
| Salted cod | Enhances | Enhances | Overrides | Overrides | Neutral |
| Blue fish | Neutral | Enhances | Neutral | Overrides | Neutral |
Pairing
Pairing has been and continues to be a source of controversy. There isn’t even consensus around the word that defines it. A pairing, a harmony, is a combination of wine and the ingredients of a dish that enhances the experience of both products separately. The goal will always be to find synergy between wine and dish.
A matter of taste and cultural conditioning for some. An objective and demonstrable science for others. Pairing requires a great deal of study and a bit of magic. It is based on a scientific foundation, still under construction, but like art, it has the ability to make diners understand and enjoy beyond what is physically perceptible.
Creativity around harmony with Monastrell and Jumilla wines
In the affinity tables, different families of ingredients have been studied to assess their impact on Monastrell. In these creativity tables, we recommend cooking methods and culinary preparations to use with these products, with the aim of laying the foundation for creativity in Jumilla wines.
| Products | Cooking | Preparation |
|---|---|---|
| Raw beets | Raw | Carpaccio |
| Marinated salmon | Marinated | Usuzukuri |
| Zamburiñas | Salting | Cold cream |
| Xantarella | Smoked | Gyoza |
| Sweet potato | Stir-fried | Bao bum |
| Yellow chili pepper | Flambéed | Sabu sabu |
| Fresh green pepper | Cooked | Stick rice |
| Rice | Steamed | Spreadable cream |
| Products | Cooking Method | Preparation |
|---|---|---|
| Parsnip | Roasted | Pâté |
| Cooked Beetroot | Charcoal Grilled | Tataki |
| Black Olive | Confit | Dry Rice |
| Offal | Stewed | Anticuchos |
| Game (Feather & Fur) | Griddled | Satay |
| Lamb | Fried | Civet |
| Octopus | Sautéed | Tartare |
| Peanuts | Salt-baked | Cooked Sausage |
| Products | Cooking Method | Preparation |
|---|---|---|
| Dark Chocolate | Roasted | Ganache |
| Duck | Cured | Croquant |
| Pink Peppercorn | Charcoal Grilled | Edible Soil |
| Ginger | Pastry | Granita |
| Coffee | Ice Cream Making | Crème Anglaise |
“There is no gastronomy or culinary culture without the presence of wine. The two are inextricably linked, and there are usually two versions: those who create a dish and then look for a wine to enjoy it with, and those who select a wine and then reflect on how to prepare it to enhance it.” With this study of harmonies, we are in the second case.”
— Enrique Calduch
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